China and the Yangtze River
China and the Yangtze River
This was a great trip! The distances covered in this trip are
challenging. The trip covers approximately
5000 km (3100 mi) of domestic airline flights within China, 600 km (372 mi) by
boat on the Yangtze River, with another 1725 km (1070 mi flight to Bangkok. The amount of walking over the 25 day period
is estimated at 30 miles and 2000 steps.
This is the most physically challenging trip with Grand Circle Tours
that I have been on, and probably one of their most physically challenging that
they have.
This was not just a “showcase” type
of trip. We really experienced the
diversity of China, from the capital and center of government, Beijing to the
financial and metropolitan centers of Shanghai and Hong Kong, to the massive
three gorges hydroelectric project, to the interior cities of Chongqing, Xi’an
and Guilin. We visited interior Chinese
people displaced by the dam. We also
visited schools, jade, silk and cloisonné factories, operas and musicals – a
full range of social and cultural activities.
The weather was very good for this
time of year; we had sunshine and not smog in Beijing. We had some rain one day in Shanghai, but
“worked around it”. Even the Yangtze
River cruise, which is normally foggy and misty, was mostly sunny and
clear. Temperatures were temperate in
the north and interior, and warmed up into the 90’s in the south at Guilin,
Hong Kong and Bangkok.
First shots of Beijing – Where’s the
famous smog? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beijing
The accommodations ranged from
literally palatial, the Qu Jiang International Hotel Xi'an, (in my opinion the most
nicely appointed hotel I’ve ever stayed at), to serviceable. (the Cityview
Hotel in Hong Kong). The Victoria Katarina
Executive accommodations were also excellent for a river boat. Every place we stayed furnished two free
bottles of drinking water per day, a safe for valuables and a TV, normally with
either BBC or CNN on it. Free wifi was
also provided, although the speed of the service in Shanghai was not even
measurable, and I had to pay for wifi in Bangkok.
International TV channels (BBC,
Bloomberg, CNN, etc) were available at most of the hotels where we stayed and
did not seem to be censored. Internet is
censored in China. Google, Facebook,
Twitter, etc, are not directly available.
Baidu is used in place of Google as a search engine. The way around this is to install and good
VPN (Virtual Private Network), which uses servers outside of China to defeat
the Chinese censorship. I installed and
tested VyPrVPN (pay for) prior to the trip, and it worked perfectly in
China. I was the only one in my group to
have western internet services.
It's
not illegal to use a VPN. Hundreds if not thousands of companies depend on
virtual private networks to conduct business where security is important, and
it's nearly inconceivable that Chinese regulators would inflict that kind of
collateral damage by imposing a blanket ban on VPN use. Whether it's legal or not to use
circumvention tools to bypass the Great Firewall is something I'm not sure has
ever been formally decreed. It wasn't until quite recently that the Chinese
government even openly admitted that it censored the Internet. And I have yet
to hear of a single case in which a charge has been brought against a Chinese
Internet user for "hopping the Wall." The Berkman Center for
Internet and Society at Harvard estimates that less than 3% of Internet users
in heavily censored markets (like China) use circumvention technologies, but
even at 2%, with 450 million Internet users in China that's still 9 million
people using circumvention tools (proxy servers, VPNs, TOR, what have you).
Our group consisted of 19 people,
which is small for a Grand Circle Travel tour.
The norm is about 35 people. I
pulled bios from the internet before the trip.
We had several college professors, two published medical doctors and
other retired executives, professional people etc. The picture was taken by a professional
photographer in front of Mao’s tomb in Tiananmen Square on Sunday, June 14,
2015. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiananmen_Square
The food was nearly all Chinese,
served family style on a large central table Lazy Susan style, and eaten with
chopsticks, although western implements were available. I thought that the choices were tasty, but
somewhat bland in Beijing and Shanghai.
They got a little spicier as we travelled further west. Our tour director, George, identified each
exotic plate as it was placed on the tray.
Our tour director George Zhang Ke
was superb. Just when you think you’ve
had the best, another tour director comes along who is as good as or better
than the last one. Tomas Brabec in
Europe, Selcuk Yigatsoy in Turkey, and now George Zhang Ke in China have all
been outstanding. Local guides and bus
drivers have also been exceedingly good.
Some general comments on China.
The overwhelming feature of China is
people, people, people and cars, cars, cars. (Other vehicles, too), in a
seemingly chaotic mix. There are 1.4
billion people in China. That’s 500
million more people than the U.S and E.U. combined. There are more cell phones in China than the
U.S. has people, and they all seem glued to the ears or thumbs of the people in
the cities. There are over 150 cities in
China with a population over 1 million.
Cities of 1-2 million people are called “towns”. China is a massive, crowded country ruled by
an ostensibly communist government with a market oriented philosophy. That sounds like an oxymoron, but there it
is. Everyone in the cities is hell-bent
toward capitalism and consumerism. Marx
and Lenin and Mao are rolling over in their graves, while Deng Xiaoping smiles
in his grave and says “I told you so – just the way I orchestrated it”
The Chinese are rules oriented, and
people obey the rules without too much complaint. Dissension is allowed, as long as it is not
too loud. The system is not our system, but it works for them. The per capita GDP in China in 1985 was
$600. In 2015, it is estimated as
$13,800. This is across 1.4 billion
people, and this is absolutely phenomenal growth. Of course these GDP figures are averages, and
the wealth is really concentrated in the large cities and professional
classes. The rural peasants (nearly a
billion of them), really do not share too much in this wealth or in the social
amenities that city residents get. The
goal of most rural Chinese is to get to a city and obtain city based
identification.
This almost oligarchic social system
must be anathema to hard line communists like Mao Zedong, but Mao tried to
equalize the masses and nearly destroyed the country. Upwards of 30 million
people died of famine during Mao’s “great leap forward”. And another 1.5
million died during his “cultural revolution”. We had several lectures and
discussions during this trip by people who lived through these social upheavals
of the 60’s and 70’s. Our tour
director’s (George’s) parents were among them, and he expounded on this at some
length one afternoon on the Yangtze.
Mao Zedong is still considered the
founder of the present incarnation of the country. His mummified body lies in Tiananmen
Square. His portrait appears on Chinese
paper money. People now say that he was
“80 percent right and 20 percent wrong”.
Deng Xiaoping is acknowledged as the founder of modern China by
instituting a market oriented economy in the late 70’s. His successors have continued Deng’s policies
and we can observe their efficacy by the growth of the Chinese economy over the
last 30+ years. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mao_Zedong https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deng_Xiaoping
China has virtually no pickup trucks
and no satellite dishes or TV antennas, at least in the cities. Pickups are considered commercial vehicles
and are banned from cities by law. TV
signals are carried by cable and not broadcast over the air.
Although there are no official estimates of the population of Beijing in
2012, unofficial estimates put the population at around 21-22 million. Although Beijing is the capital city of China,
there are larger cities in the country. Shanghai
is home to 23 million people in 2013, and is considered to be China's
largest city. Others, however, argue that Chongqing,
a municipality of 28,846,200 in the center of China
is technically China's
largest city. This is because, although the urban population of Chongqing
is only 6-7 million, under Chinese law a municipality is considered to be the
equivalent of a city. If we take
Chongqing out of the equation, Beijing is the second largest country in China
and the sixth largest city in the world, behind Shanghai,
Istanbul,
Karachi,
Mumbai
and Moscow.It is worth relating the impact that Charlie Soong a Methodist minister and businessman had on post Qing Dynasty China. Charlie had three sons and three daughters, and between them they carved out a permanent niche in the politics of the Chinese republic in the years from its founding in 1911 to its fall in 1949. The three sons were educated at universities in the United States, two at Harvard and one at Vanderbilt, and became vastly wealthy. The eldest, T. V. (Tse-ven) Soong (by common practice all three were referred to by the initials of their Chinese given names) became a major figure in Nationalist Chinese, Kuomintang Party politics, serving at intervals as Finance Minister, Foreign Minister and governor of the Central Bank of China; his younger brothers, T. L. (Tse-liang) and T. A. (Tse- an), were powerful as bankers, industrialists and company directors.
Charlie Soong's three daughters, all also American-educated, had even more dramatic fates through their marriages - the eldest, Ai-ling, started out as Sun Yat-sen's secretary and went on to marry H. H. Kung, a wealthy industrialist, Oberlin College and Yale University graduate, and lineal descendant of Confucius; the middle daughter, Ching- ling, married Sun Yat-sen, and after his death in 1925 became an influential exponent of the liberal-radical cause, and eventually a vice chairman of the People's Republic of China; the youngest daughter, May-ling, married Chiang Kai-shek. She was known as Madame Chang Kai-Shek. She died in New York City at age 105. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charlie_Soong https://www.google.com/search?q=soong+mai-ling&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
- Days 1-2 Thurs, June 11 & 12, 2015
I departed
DFW for SFO at 6 AM after 3 AM wake-up. The
flight from DFW to SFO was via SkyWest on an E7W, a small, uncomfortable little
plane. While at SFO I discovered that two of the wheels on my carry-on spinner
did not work, so I had to drag the luggage for about a half a mile in San
Francisco. I checked it at the gate for
the trans-Pacific flight, which was on a Boeing 747-400. Total elapsed travel time was 4 hours from DFW
to SFO, a 3 hour layover in SFO, 12 hours to PEK. I arrived on schedule at Beijing at 2:20 PM
June 12th and met Tony, our Beijing guide, and Ed and Penny Rasala,
two of our group, after passport and immigration control. We met George Zhang Ke, our tour director at
the entrance of the hotel, and he gave us our keys, wifi passwords, etc
- Day 3 - Sat, June 13, 2015
Beijing •
Temple of Heaven & Summer Palace
- Meals included: B L D
- Accommodations: Park Plaza Beijing West Hotel (Decent Wi-Fi included)
We met
with our program Director George Zhang Ke after a good night’s sleep and a good
buffet breakfast. George told us a
little about himself, and introduced the concept that we 19 China tourists
should now be known as “George’s Family”, stressing a closeness that transcends
just a tourist relationship. We indeed
became George’s family. He gave us each
a “survival sticker” in Chinese with his cell number on in case any of us got
lost or in trouble. (No one had to use theirs).
He also stressed punctuality and rotation on the bus.
Neither
George nor Tony were members of the communist party, although both tried to
join because of the benefits accruing there from. George said he was “IBM” (I big mouth). He
was not considered docile enough to join the party. There are about 85 million
communist party members in china, out of a population of 1.4 billion.
We then
embarked on a half-day tour of the Temple of Heaven and Summer Palace, both
UNESCO World Heritage Sites. We started at the Temple of Heaven, which was
built in 1420 during the Ming Dynasty to offer sacrifices to heaven and for a
successful harvest.
The Temple
of Heaven is a masterpiece of architecture and landscape design, and comprises
a number of buildings, gardens, and pathways whose organization symbolize the
relationship between Earth and Heaven. The design layout instituted here
profoundly influenced Chinese architecture and planning for centuries. Among
the structures is the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest, which has triple eaves,
gorgeous glazed tiles, and carved marble balustrades. Built without nails,
cement, or steel rods, the entire structure is fixed by wooden mortise and
wooden brackets with the support of twelve pillars. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temple_of_Heaven
We had lunch
at a local restaurant and then toured the Summer Palace, the former summer
retreat for the imperial family during the late Qing Dynasty and now China’s
largest and best-preserved royal garden. It has an 800-year history, beginning
with the creation here of the Golden Hill Palace during the Jin Dynasty. Much
later, in 1750, the Garden of Clear Ripples was built on this site. The garden
has been restored twice since then, after being damaged by foreign military
forces. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Summer_Palace
The total
amount of walking was about 3 miles and 200 steps. We finished the day with a Welcome Dinner
featuring Peking duck at the hotel, not my favorite dish.
Beijing is
the government and political center of China.
Talk on the street is mostly politics.
The population of Beijing is 21.52 million in 2015. The municipal area is 6300 square miles, and
the urban area is 530 square miles.
Although Beijing has several building over 50 stories, they are not
really concentrated in one area. Beijing
is relatively flat and spread out and there is not really a specific “downtown”
area.
- Day 4 - Sun, June 14, 2015
Beijing •
Forbidden City • Beijing's Hidden Lanes tour • Beijing opera &
dinner
- Meals included: B L D
- Accommodations: Park Plaza Beijing West Hotel
We went by
bus to the vicinity of Tiananmen and waited with multitudinous Chinese crowds to
enter the grounds. After a security
check we walked around Tiananmen Square, which is the central square of China
and which has been the site of massive gatherings of various types. It was the
setting for mass Red Guard rallies through the years and, in 1989, saw huge
pro-democracy demonstrations. (Our guide, Tony was there in 1989). We then had a group picture taken by a
professional photographer. (see above)
The city
of Beijing is built around Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, a UNESCO
World Heritage Site. Beijing is not only the political and administrative
center of China; it is also the single greatest repository of monuments and
treasures from the Imperial era. Beijing was not laid out until the rule of the
Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). In traditional Chinese thought, the world was
conceived of as square. A city, especially a capital, was supposed to be
square, a geometric reflection of the cosmic order.
We entered
the Forbidden City, so named because it was off limits to visitors for 500
years. Completed in 1420, this was the center of Imperial palaces for the
emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties. The last dynasty fell in 1911, though
the last Qing emperor lived here until 1925 when it became a museum. The city
contains 800 ceremonial buildings, containing 9,999 rooms, and a courtyard that
can hold 100,000 people. It has acres of grandeur—elegant palaces, pavilions,
courtyards, and gardens—all walled in as a rectangular island within a moat
wide enough for naval engagements. We
finished this quite arduous day by walking through the Imperial Gardens in the
Forbidden City. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forbidden_City, http://www.kinabaloo.com/fcs.html
We had
lunch at a restaurant outside the Forbidden City. We then did a rickshaw tour
of Beijing's Hidden Lanes. In the past, several thousand lanes, alleys,
and quadrangles formed residential areas for ordinary people living in the
capital. The word hutong refers to the narrow lanes created by the
walled residential compounds built one on top of the other in these cramped
districts. Many hutong were built during the Yuan (1206-1341), Ming
(1368-1628), and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties. We then split up into smaller
groups and visited with a local a local family and enjoyed a tea break. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hutong
After a
brief rest at the hotel, we had dinner and attended a special performance of
Beijing opera. This is not like the Western opera, full of arias and centered on
singing. It’s a beautiful and delicate blend of grand opera, ballet, song,
drama, and comedy that spans the entire history of China, its folklore,
mythology, literature, and culture. To my ear, the singing and accompanying
music were like so much screeching. It
was, however, unique. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peking_opera
This was a
very active day. We walked at least 3
miles and about 200 steps.
- Day 5 - Mon, June 15, 2015
Beijing • Ming
Tombs, Jade Factory, Great Wall, Kung Fu School
- Meals included: B L D
First
thing in the morning we continued our tour in the peaceful valley that the Ming
emperors chose as their burial ground. We passed through a great marble gateway
more than four centuries old, and onto Sacred Way, the Avenue of the Animals,
lined with massive stone statues of kneeling and standing elephants, lions,
camels, and fanciful beasts. Nearby, we saw the tombs housing the remains of 13
emperors and innumerable treasures. These 13 imperial tombs, also protected
under UNESCO, were built from 1409 to 1644, and are spread over nearly 25
square miles. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ming_tombs
Later in
the morning, we visited a jade factory and learned about the various forms of
jade and how it is formed into works of art.
Then, we
continued the tour with a ride through the suburbs to the Jun Du Hills,
arriving at the Great Wall of China. Climbing to various towers of the wall was
optional, so I climbed to the second level, took pictures with Chinese tourists
and turned back. Some members of our
group climbed all the way to the fourth level.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Wall_of_China
Construction
of the Great Wall, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, began during the Warring
States Period (403-221 BC) with sections built in scattered areas. It was only
following China’s unification under the first emperor Qin Shi Huangdi (221-206
BC) that some 300,000 men were put to work connecting the segments into one
rampart of brick, stone, and earth nearly 4,000 miles long. Intended to shield
the nation from invaders, the Great Wall is now one of China’s leading tourist
attractions.
Originally
built in sections to protect various provinces from northern tribes, the wall’s
construction ranges from brick-and-mortar to earthen ramparts. In the 1950s,
restoration was begun on several significant portions of the wall—including one
of the most impressive, at the Jun Du Hills, where construction started in
1345. As you walk along its ramparts, undulating up and down steep hills and
graced with massive lookout towers, imagine the scenes of battle, ceremony,
commerce, and labor that have taken place along its serpentine path to the sea.
Each of
the wall's great stone towers could garrison hundreds of soldiers. The towers
are built at a distance of two bowshots apart—meaning that the entire wall
could be defended by the archers within it. You may notice that the wall snakes
along a winding path—this is because Chinese mythology maintains that demons
and evil spirits can only travel in a straight line, and the undulating wall
effectively keeps them out.
We skipped
lunch and in the late afternoon, we admired the grace and skill of the students
at a local Kung Fu School and got a bit of a lesson from its young pupils.
Later in
the evening, we had an included dinner at a local restaurant.
- Day 6 - Tues, June 16, 2015
Beijing • Olympic
Village, Cloisonné Factory • Shanghai
- Meals included: B L
- Accommodations: Ramada Plaza Peace Shanghai Wi-Fi
This
morning we visited the Olympic Village, followed by a Cloisonné (enamelware)
factory. Cloisonné is an ancient
craft, and we observed the skills involved in creating this decorative art
form. Artisans create brilliantly colored pieces with often complex patterns,
using strips of metal and traditional painting techniques.
Cloisonné which is also known as enamel is a kind of
copper craftwork. It first appeared in this city in the Yuan Dynasty
(1271-1368) and prevailed during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Cloisonné is a
perfect combination of copper and porcelain. It is made by using copper as the
basal material with brass wires fixed to the body of the copper in some
designs. Then blue glaze is applied to the brass wire. After a series of
complex procedures, such as burning, burnishing and gilding, the cloisonné is
done. This process can be used to make articles such as headgears, lamps,
smoking sets and other vessels of all shapes and sizes. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cloisonn%C3%A9
Notice that the famous Beijing smog was back this
morning making visibility an issue.
This
afternoon, we flew to a rainy Shanghai and were met by our Shanghai local
guide, David.
Chinese
security is quite rigorous. The internal East China Airways flight from Beijing
to Shanghai proved to be somewhat problematic for our group, including me.
The
Chinese security is lithium battery charger averse, and they found three of
these devices in my luggage and ultimately confiscated them after showing me
their regulation in English. A humorous aside, our doctors from Kansas City had
a half bottle of scotch in their luggage which was flagged by the Chinese
authorities. The group (not me) tried to
consume this scotch and not waste it. There
were various luggage infractions by the group on this first flight within
China. Successive flights were much
easier.
My luggage
was borderline overweight when I left Dallas.
Although I did not buy a lot of stuff, the luggage definitely got quite
overweight as we progressed. The way we
handled this is through a group baggage check.
My overweight baggage averaged out with other members of the group that
had underweight luggage. This worked on
international flights to Hong Kong and Bangkok, and all the way back to Dallas
on the final flights. I threw away my broken spinner and bought another carry
on spinner in Shanghai for the equivalent of a little less than $50.
- Day 7 - Wed, June 17, 2015
Shanghai
City tour • Shanghai Museum Acrobat Show - Meals included: B L
It was
raining today, so George inside activities for today. After breakfast we visited the lavishly
decorated Jade Buddha Temple, a relatively new but elegant structure that has
stood for less than 100 years. The
Buddha statue is older than the current temple, and is carved of solid white
jade, encrusted with jewels. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jade_Buddha_Temple
We next
made a stop at a nearby carpet factory, and then had a traditional Mongolian
barbecue lunch.
Later in
the afternoon we spent several hours visiting the Shanghai Museum of Art and
History, which showcases ancient everyday Chinese life and contains a
collection of artifacts from the Song to Qing dynasties. Although housed in a beautiful modern
building, I thought that the contents of this museum were rather sparse. The reasons for this were two-fold:
Chiang-Kai-shek’s nationalists removed many artifacts from mainland China and
housed them in Taiwan, and the Cultural Revolution destroyed many artifacts in
the 60’s. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shanghai_Museum
We next
had an excellent dinner at a local restaurant, and then attended an acrobat
show, which highlighted incredible young athletes doing a variety of acrobatic
feats.
- Day 8 - Thurs, June 18, 2015
Shanghai •
Suzhou tour with lunch
- Meals included: B D
- Accommodations: Ramada Plaza Peace Shanghai
First
thing this morning we took a bullet train to 500-year-old Suzhou in China’s
Silk Region. This is the city of silk, gardens, and canals that inspired Marco
Polo. We travelled 60 miles in a half hour, or 120 miles per hour.
Suzhou means “Plentiful Water,” and its Grand Canal is crowded
with strings of barges laden with fruits, vegetables, construction materials,
and coal. The Grand Canal was begun 2,400 years ago. Graceful bridges cross
over the water, and tile-roofed whitewashed houses sit close to shore. We disembarked
the train and cruised the canal to the Water Gate, which connects Suzhou to the
southern end of the canal and was used as a “toll gate” for the canal’s
commercial traffic https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzhou
After lunch we visited a silk factory to see
how silk is made from mulberry-munching silkworms to thread to fine cloth.
Marco Polo reported that so much silk was produced in Suzhou that every citizen
was clothed in it. At one time, Suzhou guarded the secrets of silk making so closely
that smuggling silkworms out of the city was punishable by death. We followed this visit with a tour of a
furniture factory.
We then went
to the Wangshi (Master of the Fishing Net) Garden, built in 1140 which boasts a
peony-filled courtyard that has been reproduced at the Metropolitan Museum of
Art in New York City. We took the bus
back to Shanghai and had a western style meal in town. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Master_of_the_Nets_Garden
- Day 9 - Fri, June 19, 2015
Shanghai •
Visit local market & senior center • Home-Hosted Lunch • Bund
- Meals included: B L D
- Accommodations: Ramada Plaza Peace Shanghai
After
breakfast we visited a senior center where residents put on a fashion show, sang
songs and performed for us. We, in turn,
sang “You Are My Sunshine” for them. We
then went to a local market which was part of the co-op along with the senior
center. Before noon, we joined a Shanghai family a home-hosted Lunch.
We then travelled
along the Bund, a five-block-long riverfront promenade containing many of
Shanghai's banks and trading houses. The view of the skyscrapers across from
the Bund is similar to the Wall Street area on New York City. We then disembarked and explored explore
Shanghai's new Pudong district, and enjoyed a panoramic drive through the city
before returning to your hotel. Notice
the Shanghai smog this afternoon. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Bund
No one was
interested in the “Shanghai by Night” tour, so it was cancelled. Several people in our group later went
downtown on their own.
- Day 10 - Sat, June 20, 2015
Shanghai •
Yichang • Begin Yangtze River cruise
- Meals included: B L D
- Accommodations: Victoria Katarina Wi-Fi (Executive)
After
breakfast, we flew from Shanghai to Yichang. There was less hassle at airport
security than on the flight from Beijing to Shanghai
Upon
arrival in Yichang, we embarked on our Yangtze River cruise ship and enjoyed a
late dinner. The Executive
accommodations which most of us had were quite comfortable, and afforded us
privileged dining facilities, free internet, etc.
Yangtze River Cruise
The only
American cruise line on the Yangtze River, Victoria Cruises is distinguished by
the quality of their fleet and their service. All cabins are outside, with an
average size of 157 to 226 square feet, and each features a private balcony,
air-conditioning, and bath with bathtub and shower. Amenities include a
nightclub, bar, health clinic, reading room, fitness center, beauty salon,
laundry service, and Internet access. Onboard activities include lectures on
Chinese history and culture, tai chi lessons, and calligraphy demonstrations.
The ships have a capacity of 208-218 passengers.
- Day 11 - Sun, June 21, 2015
Yangtze
River cruising • Tour Three Gorges Dam project • Xiling Gorge • Flying Tigers
discussion
- Meals included: B L D
- Accommodations: Victoria Katarina
We woke up
early as we sailed toward San Dou Ping Village to see the site of the Three
Gorges Dam project. Until huge new locks on the north bank are completed in a
few years, ships will pass the dam site via a temporary channel, which has been
dug out of the south bank.
We heard about
and visited the massive construction project and its effects on the people and
landscape. When complete, this hydroelectric project will displace 1.25 million
people and submerge countless archaeological sites, 13 cities, 140 towns, and
1,352 villages, creating a reservoir equal in size to Singapore.
We spent
the remainder of the afternoon sailing the Yangtze. For the next 150
miles, the Yangtze has forged its way through a spectacular barrier of solid
limestone ridges known as the Three Gorges. We entered Xiling Gorge, the
longest of the gorges, noted for its narrow, precipitous cliffs. We sailed past
tombs, shrines, and caves, through stretches of tranquil water and swirling
rapids. Points of interest are the Twelve Peaks (enshrouded in rain and mist),
Five Sisters Peaks, Three Brothers Rocks, The Needle, and Goddess Peak. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_Gorges_Dam
Later, we
attended the Captain’s Welcome Cocktail Party and a “welcome aboard” show with
traditional Chinese costumes and dancers, followed by demonstrations in the art
of traditional Chinese massage and medicine. We had dinner onboard as the ship
continued cruising.
- Day 12 - Mon, June 22, 2015
Shennong Stream excursion • Wu Gorge • Qutang
Gorge
- Meals included: B L D
- Accommodations: Victoria Katarina
We
disembarked the river cruise ship this morning and took a ferry ride to the
entrance of Shennong Stream, where we boarded a small boat... Narrower than the
great Three Gorges, these canyons are considered just as impressive as their
larger counterparts. We visited the scenic area at Shennong Xi and observed a
film, and live dancing in the courtyard.
Then the Yangtze River cruise took us through Wu Gorge, known for its
magnificent scenery of lush green mountains. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wu_Gorge https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shennong_Stream
Back
aboard our cruise ship by mid-afternoon, we continued through the Qutang Gorge,
the shortest and narrowest of the three, but quite spectacular. This narrow
gorge is a one-way passage, so upstream ships must often wait for downstream
ships to clear it before entering.
- Day 13 - Tues, June 23, 2015
Yangtze
cruising • Fengdu home visit with relocated family
- Meals included: B L D
- Accommodations: Victoria Katarina
Today we
visited Fengdu, one of the towns enlarged by the flooding caused by the Three
Gorges Dam reservoir. We climbed interminable steps to ground level because the
river was at low tide. We then got a
personal perspective on the effects of the Three Gorges Dam project during a visit
to the home of a local family that was forced to relocate when their village
was submerged. Someone in our group
asked the little old lady of the house if she didn’t miss the “chickies and
bunnies” (sic) on her original farm. I’m
sure she said “hell no”. While we there we visited a pre-school for the town’s
children. It was pandemonium with so
many young voices.
Afterward,
we returned to our ship and resumed cruising, passing underneath the Wanxian
Bridge, a concrete arch bridge spanning the wide gap between the banks of the
Yangtze.
We
returned to the ship and continued cruising. We observed the many river towns
along the banks, and watched the industry and commerce that drives the economy
of this watery inland region.
Later
in the afternoon, we learned how to play Mahjong, a traditional Chinese game
involving the skillful placement of tiles.
I won the two demo games we played.
Later we had a lecture and demonstration of acupuncture. I volunteered with my sore shoulder, and
needles in the knee and arm (no pain) and suction cups were used to alleviate
the pain. It seemed to work for awhile,
but was represented as a “demonstration only.
Later we had a dancing demonstration and a Farewell Dinner with the
group. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mahjong, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acupuncture
- Day 14 - Weds, June 24, 2015
Disembark
ship • Chongqing & Stilwell Museum • Panda visit • Xian
- Meals included: B L D
- Accommodations: Qu Jiang International Hotel Wi-Fi
We continued
on the Yangtze this morning and arrived in Chongqing after breakfast. The
municipality of Chongqing has a population of nearly 29 million and is reputed
to be the largest municipality in China.
In April of 1997, Chongqing was separated from Sichuan Province, and
became an independent municipality, encompassing the entire Yangtze Valley
between Wushan (Lesser Three Gorges) and Chongqing proper. We disembarked and
toured this mountain city, which was the capital of China during World War II,
and today, is the most important inland industrial city in China.
During the
tour, we visited the Stilwell Museum dedicated to "Vinegar Joe"
Stilwell, commander of American forces in China, Burma, and India during World
War II. Here, we learned about the
colorful history of the American Volunteer Air Group, the "Flying
Tigers," who were based here during the war. The cat is a dead ringer for my Ratlee.
After
lunch at a local restaurant, we drove to the zoo to see the pandas. With their
cuddly good looks, giant pandas seem to hold a universal appeal. However, they
remain one of the world's most endangered species, with just an estimated 1,000
surviving in the wild. Native to China, these bamboo-eaters inhabit small,
fragmented pockets in Sichuan, Gansu, and Shaanxi provinces.
About 110
giant pandas live in zoos and breeding facilities, with fewer than 20 outside
China. These bears have thrived at the Beijing Zoo, where they were first bred
in captivity in 1963. Biologists at the zoo also recorded the first successful
birth from artificial insemination in 1978. We observed these solitary
creatures in their specially designed habitat.
Wal-Mart is literally everywhere.
In late
afternoon, we drove to the Chongqing airport to take a short flight to Xian. On
arrival, we transferred to the Qu Jiang International Hotel, the most sumptuous
hotel that I’ve ever stayed at... When ancient Peking (now Beijing) was just a
remote trading post, Xian was the capital of the Middle Kingdom and one of the
world's biggest and richest cities, the geographical beginning of China's
fabled Silk Road. The town itself is famous for its city walls, measuring more
than eight miles in circumference. Xian (then named Chang'an, meaning
"Everlasting Peace") reached its peak during the Tang Dynasty. It was
once one of the largest cities in the world, with a population of almost two
million.
This
evening, we enjoyed an included dinner at a very ornate and well appointed local
restaurant.
- ‘Day 15 - Thurs, June 25, 2015
Xian •
Terra Cotta Army • Home-Hosted Lunch • School visit • Optional Tang Dynasty
show & dinner
- Meals included: B L
- Accommodations: Qu Jiang International Hotel
This
morning, we visited the Qin Mausoleum, famed for its vast Terra Cotta Army, a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. More than
2,000 years ago, the Emperor Qin Shi Huang was buried in an earth mound, along
with 6,400 life-sized terra cotta warriors, archers, and infantrymen, together
with their horses and chariots—individually sculpted from live models.
In the
early 1970s, farmers digging a well accidentally uncovered some of these
soldiers. Since then, three large pits have been uncovered, and are now on view
to the public. Walkways have been constructed to give a bird’s-eye view of the
stunning sight of an entire army carved in incredible detail (each man and each
horse with his own distinct personality). Here they stand, in battle formation,
set in the ground to guard and protect the great emperor’s tomb.
Pit no 1 contains the bulk of the uncovered figure. Pit no. 2 has not yet been excavated. Pit no. 3 Has the metal parts of chariots
from over 2000 years ago.
Later, we
joined a local family for a Home-Hosted Lunch. After lunch, we visited a
community-founded school that is supported in part by Grand Circle Foundation. We
were welcomed by students and had the chance to visit classrooms, read English
together, witness traditional brush painting, etc. The little girl in yellow was my
hostess. She took my hand and led me to
the classroom we were to visit.
We then experienced
the culinary and cultural delights of ancient Xian with the optional Tang
Dynasty show and dinner. The beautiful costumes, enchanting dances, and ancient
music of the Tang Dynasty—a period of peace and exceptional creativity from AD
618 to 907—have been carefully recreated. This type of performance has been
treasured as a national art that reflects the glory and richness of the Tang
Dynasty. Dinner was served before the show.
http://www.xiantangdynasty.com/Column.aspx?ColId=46
- Day 16 - Fri, June 26 2015
Xian •
Small Wild Goose Pagoda & City Wall • Guilin
- Meals included: B L
- Accommodations: Guilin Bravo Hotel Wi-Fi
After
breakfast, we set off to discover Chinese craftsmanship at a lacquer ware factory.
We then visited
the Small Wild Goose Pagoda. One of the
oldest pagodas in China, it is housed in Xian's Jianfu Temple. While we were in the gift shop, George, our
tour director, offered to create calligraphic representation of our names in
Chinese characters. Most of us,
including me, took him up on it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giant_Wild_Goose_Pagoda
After an authentic dumpling lunch at a local
restaurant, we explored Xian's city walls, built in the 14th century by the
Ming Dynasty. It was wet when we started
the day, and it was raining steadily by the time we toured the walls.
This
afternoon, we transferred to the airport and flew from the dry northwestern
plateau of Xian to the moist, semi-tropical mountainous region of Guilin. In
the words of a Chinese poet, Guilin is known as the land of the "finest
misty limestone mountains and rivers under heaven." https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fortifications_of_Xi%27an
Day 17 - Sat, June 27, 2015
- Guilin • Li River cruise
- Meals included: B L D
o
o
No one was interested in the
optional Tea Garden tour, so George made some adjustments in our schedule. We did the Li River Cruise today, rather than
the 28th, and flew to Hong Kong earlier the next day.
After
breakfast, we boarded a local river craft and cruised the Li River, passing
humped limestone peaks, fishermen astride bamboo rafts, washerwomen squatting
on the shore, and water buffalo ambling down to the banks for a dip. We saw
many colorful scenes often seen in Chinese watercolors and scroll paintings. We
had simple lunch is on board the boat during the River Cruise. I put this lunch aside for later.
We
then had a great western style meal back in Guilin Center.
- Day 18 - Sun, June 28, 2015
After
breakfast, we transferred to the airport for the flight to Hong Kong, long the
center of trade in Asia and the world's busiest port. After a short tour of
Hong Kong on the way to the hotel, I relaxed and had dinner at a nearby “Golden
Arches”. The cheeseburger and fries were
just like in Dallas.
There were
no issues with the airport security or baggage.
My overweight baggage (two bags) went as part of the group weight, even
though this was an international flight.
Seeing
the red Chinese flag fly over Hong Kong rather than the union jack elicited
some negative feelings from within
me. That red flag was carried by our
enemies in Korea in 1950-53.
- Day 19 - Mon, June 29, 2015
We had
breakfast at the hotel and then began a tour of Hong Kong by taking a bus up to
Victoria Peak, which offers a great view of the harbor, islands, and
skyscrapers. This famous hill, more than 1,800 feet high, is called Tai Ping
Shan in Chinese—"Mountain of Great Peace.” I took some photos there that I could compare
to similar ones I took from Victoria Peak in February 1981, when I spent a
weekend in Hong Kong on the way to
Indonesia.
2015 1981
Then we
saw where Hong Kong plays and prays by visiting the beach of shrine-dotted
Repulse Bay. We also saw the Deep Water Bay and visited the floating village of
Aberdeen, which may soon become only a memory as the houseboats are moved to
other harbors. In the past, thousands of people spent their lives and made
their livings on junks and sampans in the harbor, though these
days there are fewer and fewer fishing junks.
We then stopped
at a jewelry factory for about a half hour..
We
continued our tour of Hong Kong by taking the historic Star Ferry between Kowloon
and Hong Kong Island the way locals have for more than 100 years. A bus then
brought us to the Central district and the Western district, an older part of
Hong Kong full of local flavor. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_tallest_buildings_in_Hong_Kong
I had
visited Hong Kong in 1981. The changes
since then are astounding. There is a
greater concentration of skyscrapers in Hong Kong than anywhere else in the
world.
- Day 20 - Tues, June 30, 2015
Hong Kong
• Kowloon & the New Territories tour with seafood lunch
We took
the optional tour for $90, traveling through the eastern part of the New
Territories, leased to Britain by China in 1898 for a period of 99 years. Known
as "the land between," the peninsula across Victoria Harbor consists
of rocky coastline and lush, hilly farmland—a contrast to the hustle and bustle
of the city itself.
We strolled
through the local flower market, followed by a visit to famed Bird Street,
where songbirds are sold and traded.
I worked
for them for 28 years. Now part of
Chevron. I’m officially a Chevron
retiree.
We then visited the Wong Tai Sin Temple, a colorful
example of a traditional Chinese place of worship. Continue on to Nan Lian
Garden, a serene, well-appointed green space decorated in the Tang Dynasty
style. http://www.chinahighlights.com/hong-kong/attraction/wong-tai-sin-temple.htm
We next
went to Sai Kung, a fishing village we enjoyed a great seafood lunch.
Tonight, we
gathered with the group for a Farewell Dinner at a local restaurant. I gave George, our tour director, all of my
foreign paper cash plus US80, a total of about $120.
Post-trip: Bangkok, Thailand
- Day 21- Wed, July 1, 2015
Hong Kong,
China • Bangkok, Thailand
- Accommodations: Montien Riverside Hotel Pay for Wi-Fi
The nine
of us continuing on to Bangkok transferred to the airport for the flight to
Bangkok. Again there were no issues with
security or overweight baggage. Jack,
the Grand Circle representative met us at the airport and assisted us to the
hotel. After a few hours rest, we took a
bus downtown and walked around the bazaar area.
We then had a meal at a restaurant suggested by Jack, which we paid for.
As we were
there, Thailand was being ruled by a general from the military after a
bloodless coup in August 2014. The Chief
of state: is King PHUMIPHON Adunyadet, (since 9 June 1946). The head of government is Interim Prime
Minister Gen. PRAYUT Chan-ocha (since 25 August 2014). Thailand has had 11 coups since 1932.
Thailand ostensibly is an elective
constitutional monarchy. However, the
monarch is supreme and revered and nearly worshipped, and the army is
controlled by the monarch. After
elections, a government (Prime Minister, etc) are chosen and parliament
convenes and governs the country. If
either the king or the military is dissatisfied with the government, they take
it over and run the country themselves.
That was the situation while we were there. People were afraid to speak against the king
or the government, much more so, it seemed than in China. A strange country! http://www.cbc.ca/news/world/thailand-s-19th-coup-underscores-country-s-fatal-flaw-1.2658846
Day 22 - Thurs, July 2, 2015
Bangkok •
Bangkok City tour
- Meals included: B L
- Accommodations: Montien Riverside Hotel
We had
breakfast this morning at the hotel, and then rode by bus to the Grand Palace.
In 1767, Burmese forces attacked the Thai capital of Ayutthaya, leaving it in
ruins. King Rama I moved the capital to its present site in 1782, and the Grand
Palace became the centerpiece of a new Thai capital called Krung Thep (City of
Angels), known outside of Thailand as Bangkok. The original palace was
constructed with some material brought from Ayutthaya, and each successive
ruler expanded and refined the complex. It was King Mongkut (or Rama IV) who
ruled from this palace, expanded trade with the West, and was romanticized in
the musical The King and I.
The palace
is a massive square-mile complex of gilded wats (temples), intricate
ceremonial halls, and elaborate statues. Enclosed by ancient walls, the palace
also contains the residence of the Royal Family and government offices.
We also
saw the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, with a statue of the Buddha carved from a
piece of emerald-green jade. We had lunch at a local restaurant, and then saw a
jewelry-making at a local jewelry shop. No pictures were allowed in this shop.
Bangkok
sets a new standard when it comes to ornateness. I have never seen such a concentration of
truly dazzling and ornate buildings
As you can
see, it was a beautiful, Sunny, hot day.
We had the
rest of the afternoon off, and I walked across the freeway at a crossing bridge
and got some junk food snacks. This walk
in 95 degree heat & same humidity wore me out. I had the junk food for dinner that evening
- Day 23 - Fri, July 3, 2015
Bangkok •
Flower Market • Wat Pho • Optional Marble Hall & Siam Niramit with
dinner excursion
- Meals included: B
- Accommodations: Montien Riverside Hotel
After
breakfast, we walked through one of Bangkok’s largest flower markets. Then we payed
a visit to Wat Pho to see its reclining Buddha statue—a gilded sculpture that’s
more than 150 feet long and 50 feet high.
This
afternoon we did an optional tour which showcases Thailand’s cultural heritage.
First, we visited Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall, a marble Renaissance-style
building constructed in the early 20th century as part of Dusit Palace. Also known as Marble Hall, the building is now
a museum celebrated for its beautiful ceiling murals depicting the history of the
Chakri Dynasty—Thailand’s current royal house, which has been in power since
1782. The museum also displays a variety of rare and impressive Thai
handcrafts. No pictures were allowed inside of the museum. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ananta_Samakhom_Throne_Hall
Afterwards,
we did a tour of Siam Niramit Theater, in which we later enjoyed included
dinner, followed by an elaborate stage production celebrating Thai history and
culture. Part Andrew Lloyd Webber musical and part Cirque du Soleil, the show
employs a cast of more than 150 actors, who wear more than 500 extravagant
costumes as they depict seven centuries of Thai history through song and dance. No picture allowed.
- Day 24 - Sat, July 4, 2015
Bangkok •
Optional Ayutthaya Ancient City tour
- Meals included: B D
- Accommodations: Montien Riverside Hotel
After breakfast,
we did a full-day excursion to the ancient city of Ayutthaya, a UNESCO World
Heritage Site whose golden ruins are reminiscent of the splendor of early Siam.
Ayutthaya was the capital of the kingdom of Thailand for hundreds of years,
from 1350 to 1767. With three rivers surrounding this city and more than 30
miles of canals, it was the thriving cultural and commercial heart of the
kingdom, attracting foreign merchants from Europe and Asia. In 1767, after 33
dynasties, most of this majestic city was destroyed by the Burmese.
Ayutthaya
offers numerous historic ruins, fascinating architecture, and intriguing
temples, starting with Wat Phra Sri Sanphet, where the royal palace was once
located, as well as Wat Phra Mongkol Bopit, home to an impressive Bronze Buddha
statue. Then Wat Chaiwatthanaram, renowned for its elaborate, symmetrical
architecture. Then we took a long-tailed speedboat cruise for views of Phet
Fortress, Wat Phanacheong, and other city sights, as well as daily life for
those who live along the river. We lunched aboard an air-conditioned river
cruise boat before returning to Bangkok.
Tonight, we
had a Farewell Dinner at the hotel. I
gave Jack the balance of my baht (about $25).
- Day 25 - Sun, July 5, 2015
We got up
at three in the morning to catch a 6 am flight to Tokyo. Again my two overweight bags were checked in
all the way to Dallas as part of a group load.
The flight to Tokyo was 6 hours with a 2 hour layover in Tokyo. The next flight was to Denver on a Boeing 788
for 10 hours 45 minutes with a 2:45 hour layover in Denver. Next flight was 2 hours to Dallas on the
little E7W. We got into Dallas on time
at 6:30 PM Sunday evening. I got my
Sunday back. Maxine was waiting and I was
glad to get home.
